What do we talk about when we talk about acetate? Bob Sdrunk eyewear
It's time to choose some new glasses and the wide variety of frames stuns us. Maybe to make the choice easier we do some preliminary search on Google. What are the best materials? Why do I come across the word "acetate"? And why do the prices of acetate glasses vary so much?
Many glasses are made of acetate. But not all acetates are created equal. Let's start at the beginning.
The origin and virtues of acetate
Acetate, also known as cellulose acetate or Zylonita, is one of the first synthetic fibers created from cellulose in the mid-19th century. Although it wasn't until the twenties that the industry realized the possibilities of the material and the first eyeglass frames were born.
It is an incredible bioplastic: resistant, flexible and rigid at the same time, with exceptional transparency and shine. In fact, the better the acetate, the brighter and more transparent it is. Users tend to describe it as a material that feels natural to the touch (one of the many differences with common plastics).
Acetate is made from a biopolymer derived from the cellulose of tree wood or cotton fiber. Over the years, these fibers have been replaced by cheaper options such as injected nylon or polyester, both plastics of petroleum origin. The result is a lower quality material, less comfortable and also much less aesthetically appealing.
Takiron, the japaneses, acetate is considered one of the best for eyewear in the world.
In glasses we prefer acetate over other plastics because:
It does not harm the environment
It is made of renewable materials (trees and cotton)
It is hypoallergenic
It is resistant and does not lose properties over time
It is found in all colors and degrees of transparency.
Acetate glasses can be adjusted by optometrists.
Today, good acetate frames are also known for being light and resistant. And despite this, they have the transparency of glass. In addition, they have incorporated a large selection of finishes such as glossy, polished or matte.
The italian Mazzucchelli acetate is by far the brightest and colourfull, also the most confortable.
How are acetate glasses made?
The processes to manufacture the glasses are numerous and begin by creating plates and sculpting the individual parts of the frame.
Acetate plates: Acetate combinations are created by mixing organic colors with acetone and raw acetate zylonite. This mixture is worked until it becomes a thin plate. Complex colorations are achieved by adding “sandwiches” of various colors in layers and pressing them through a variety of dyes. Acetate film can be cut into small cubes and re-rolled, if necessary to increase the complexity of the composition. Once finished, these layers are shaped into large blocks. After that, technicians intricately cut new sheets that are dried in large ovens for several weeks to cure the material.
Cutting: The mounts are cut from these acetate sheets using computer-controlled grinders according to the computer-generated design. The individual components of the frame are finished by hand by different highly experienced craftsmen. They form the curve of the front of the mount, press the central cables and hinge into the acetate material. They apply the nose pads and hand finish many other design features.
Polishing: The frame components are placed in barrels the size of a washing machine filled with wood chips and small stones. The components are slowly centrifuged for many hours. After that, each frame is hand-polished by an experienced technician to obtain a unique shine.
Assembly: Other technicians fasten the arms to the frames with tiny rivets and screws. The lenses are inserted and the frame is adjusted and cleaned.
It is obvious that a key factor in this process is the artisans involved in these steps. The level and experience of the officer has a direct impact on the quality of the mounts.
Incredibly resistent and timeless, it’s the defining characteristics of the acetate eyewear.
Artisan acetate mounts
To illustrate the difference in quality between acetate and injected plastic frames, we can compare it to coffee. We are all aware of the difference between a good Italian machine coffee and a low quality instant coffee. They differ precisely in how the raw materials are produced, processed and manufactured. The same thing happens with glasses.
In general terms, the large artisan ateliers of mounts are historically located in Japan and Europe. The skill of the artisans is vital, since the process cannot be mechanized with natural acetates and can only be done by hand.
Japanese craftsmen are globally recognized as the best and frames made in Japan are generally considered superior. They provide unbelievable attention to detail when working with acetate, incorporating hundreds of steps of trimming and polishing into each mount. The material's legendary producer, Takiron, is known for producing a tougher acetate that, as a result, holds its shape better, even with very thin frame designs. And they are undeniably mounts with exceptional longevity. They are also more expensive.
However, Italian acetates, especially Mazzucchelli, are not far behind. Piedmontese are brilliant craftsmen, the inventors of acetate mounts and together with the Japanese have some of the longest-running workshops (some over a century old). Mazzucchelli, in particular, has a different process of cutting and "curing" the material which is called "block acetate". The result is "Havana" acetates, and the most intense acetate colors on the market. Another difference with Japanese acetates is that the Italian frames are very strong and, to compensate for their weight, they make the material much more flexible, because it better fits the user's face.
Chinese manufacturers are improving rapidly, but are generally less experienced due to high employee turnover rates in China. So the quality is not at the level of Japan, Italy, Belgium or Germany.
Limitless colour combination.
Commitment and Bob Sdrunk
The new Bob Sdrunk BKs.
Since we opened El Graduat, our commitment has been to offer quality frames and lenses that improve people's quality of life and have the longest possible useful life.
That's why we choose BOB SDRUNK and wear them every year in spring and autumn. These are Italian glasses, with elegant and forceful shapes, but timeless and inspired by the references of Italian design of the 20th century. Above all, however, these are glasses made of the best Mazzuchelli acetate, hand-sculpted, filed and polished with love, patience and know-how.
In this sense, we run away from injected plastic frames (mixed acetate and polyester), with programmed obsolescence, which only contribute to a consumerist cycle typical of runaway capitalism. The same one that directly threatens the environment and our immediate future on the planet.
At El Graduat we choose mounts built to last that break this vicious cycle and of course accompany your factions. Bob Sdrunk is the ideal example.
In short, our frames are made of acetate, titanium, or mixed (acetate and titanium). In most cases, if the graduation changes, we bet on keeping our frames and renewing the glasses. Both quality acetate and titanium can be handled and withstand the passage of time without issue, accidents included (like accidentally sitting on it).
